Tokyo by storm
So the trip began with an overnite bus ride from Hachinohe to Tokyo---left around 10 PM and while I caught up on some much needed zzzzz's, I awoke to find I was in one of the most densely populated cities in the world: Tokyo. Nothing screams GET UP and GET MOVING like 35 million people en route to god only knows where.
Needless to say, Yuikyo greeted me @ 7 AM. Destination #1= Asakusa. Pictured above and below, Asakusa has 13 shrines, pagodas, temples and famous Buddhist gates and halls. Almost all of these temples were destroyed during WWII and have been renovated to commemorate Sensoji, a famous Buddhist God. I thought the place was quite peaceful, considering its tumultuous past...but like many such places in the States--Asakusa is slowly being consumed by commercialism. Beside every shrine, was a small shop selling shoes and hand bags or small stands selling festival-food to hungry visitors. Yukiyo said that the shrines today are becoming less pristine and ...well, holy I guess. It is still amazing to think that these are replicas of what once was-one can't help but stand in awe of the architecture and manpower needed to erect such magnificent structures. A beautiful site! 
After Asakusa, we made a pit stop in Ueno Park. This is reminsicent of NYC's Central Park--- hundreds of acres of greenery enclosed by hundreds of miles of concrete. Ueno has many art museums and temples/shrines. We went to the Tokyo National Museum - the largest museum in Tokyo. It was a wonderful collection of cultural artifacts showcasing the historically significant materials relating to art, music, samurais, jewelry, clothing....etc. The museum was set up chronologically so we could follow the trends as they were introduced to Japan and Japanese culture. Really beautiful and different styles...very little has been "borrowed" from other cultures--it truly is a homogenous society. They have their own identity and culture and are so proud of who they are. That sense of nationalism has been around for.....hmmm.....forever (?) We also ventured over to a huge market called "Ameyocho"--a very famous spot to score some cheap deals in downtown Tokyo. I was looking for deals, but nothing beats the inexpensive lifestyle in northern Japan. While it was tempting to purchase an "Americanized" sweatshirt or pair of new runners,..............paying $150 for Nikes just isn't worth it. Supply and demand can play some interesting tricks on peoples minds!
November 3. 2005.
This was an interesting day. Yukiyo gave me one full day of training in how to navigate the Tokyo subway system. I was put to the test on Day 2 and shockingly, Mrs-no-sense-of-direction-whatsoever, passed with flying colors! Tons of English helps, but really the subway is so efficient..within minutes a new train is on the way and I was off to the next great adventure in Tokyo. First item on the day, was to take my GREs. 3 hours later, those were outta the way and I was on the prowl for a beer. But, having learned the hard way, so many times before--I remembered to carb up before slamming a few back. I hit up this really cute ramen shop...NOTHING like ramen in the States. These HUGE bowls of ramen have TONS of veggies and random sources of protein. I walked into this place and it was completly empty. No fear though--the 3 cooks came out fr behind the grills and helped me decide what to try from a vending machine (yep, NO menus @ this place) just punch in what you want and hand them a ticket to cook it up! I hadn't a clue what to try so I asked the cook what his favorite was...assuming this would be an excellent time for him to suggest the most expensive dish on the menu--he proceeds to tell me his fave is indeed THE cheapest thing! Gotta love that honesty and genuine concern for the customer's well-being. Anyways, the dish, pictured above--is so beautiful....but a bit scary. Ramen bowls are like "find your protein" scavenger hunts...I found a raw egg, some pink swirly fish-paste rings, a couple slabs of "pork"? or was it lamb/mutton?, several thin slices of squid and a few chunks of onigiri seaweed. 
After my tasty-ingredients unknown-dish, I went over to the Tokyo Tower to meet up with Yukiyo for a quick climb to the top. What a beautiful site this was. I have done the Sears Tower, Empire State Building and Sapporo Tower (also modeled after the Eiffel Tower)...but the Tokyo Tower was MOST wonderous! We cruised up to the first observation deck and were awe-struck by the lites that 35.000.000 people produce. Never satisfied, we headed up to the 250 meter observation deck and the view was................breathtaking! Wow---so many lites and people, so much retail and industry. The view stretches for almost 30 Kilometres in each direction and seriously, all you could see was a sea of christmas lites....pry the closest thing I will get to xmas this year! AmAzinG city to view @ nite! 
Flash-free-glare-induced pics just don't do it justice! The IMMENSITY of Tokyo is so visually exhausting and stimulating. Recently named the most expensive city in the world, Tokyo is a web in which people, culture, media, fashion and history are intricately tangled in such a way that leaves visitors heads spinning and redefining "What is culture?" Bystanders stand speechless, as they are bombarded by images of one of the most expensive and high maintenance fashion crux in the world. For every retail store, there was at least 10 restaurants. And the strangest thing of all: its silent. No horns, no sirens, no signals....just constant movement. Having only spent maybe 10 days in Tokyo, I present this view of Tokyo as that of a "newbie"...but in talking with Yukiyo about moving from rural places like Akita-ken and Minnesota to THE most urban place in the world, she expressed the many reasons why I should be thankful at the opportunity to travel to Tokyo, but so grateful I don't have to live in the zoo. As I sit here in my quiet, cheap and super friendly community in Taneichi typing this entry, I realize that I have it made in the inaka. 
November 5. 2005.
The agenda for this day was to meet in Ginza and head to Kabukiza--the site of the most famous Kabuki theatre in Japan. We found some cheap rates, as we only wanted to catch a couple scenes---most Kabuki performances are sold in packages that have like 10 scenes and last 4-5 hours! I used the English translation headset, but found the story line very difficult to understand. In researching kabuki a bit before I saw it, I knew to expect slower dialouge, occasional shouts of approval from the audience and a smorgaboard of Japanese music--koto, shamisen and taiko. Honestly, I enjoyed the music and the nostalgic theater....but the actually script and story were pretty slow going. The first story was about the surprise reunion between father and son and the second I couldn't even tell you! Kabuki isn't about the message or story...most Japanese KNOW the stories. They come to see the quality of acting--the actors (their body language, mannerisms, makeup and costumes) are THE spotlight...the script just gives the actors something to do. Quite opposite American theater--in which we focus on the message, the story, the setting, the scenery... Kabuki is one of the most revered art forms in Japan and I'm to have experienced it so authentically. Check out more info at this great (English) site: http://www.kabuki.gr.jp/pavilion/index.html
Spent the rest of the day window-shopping in Ginza (the largest shopping district in Tokyo). Ginza is like 5th Avenue and Michigan Avenue and Beverly Hills and everything other famous shopping strip COMBINED and then multiplied by TEN. Just craziness---too many people and ridiculous prices...we were in and out of Ginza within an hour...but not before sampling a delicious sub from SUBWAY! Yep, first time in Japan--and boy was it tasty! Really miss subs, so I threw all of my fave fixins on it, well, except they don't have Southwest sauce. Beggars can't be choosers though---I ate it in 3 minutes flat! Pictured below is about 1/100 of Ginza--at nite.
Pictured below is Nijubashi Bridge. A beautiful, European-esque fortress made thousands of years ago. The Imperial or Royal Family of Japan lives here. They are heavily guarded by military men--which we got to see do our equivalent of "changing of the guards". I thought the setting was most idyllic and serene, but the HUGE gates this family lives behind were scary and so uninviting. Yukiyo couldn't tell me much about this Family, except that they don't have anything to do with the Japanese government. Their "job" is to carry out some of the traditional aspects of Japanese lifestyle and culture....not sure what that means exactly, but they definitely have the most expensive piece of real estate in the city!
Lastly, we wrapped up this amazing adventure with a stop @ the bar/restaurant Yukiyo works at. Yukiyo and her sister Yumiyo were excellent entertainers and conversationalists! We had a super time drinking and eating and drinking and drinking... I was SO impressed by this place! It had a western feel to it, moodlighting and jazzy music playing. Very contemporary in style and a super friendly, efficient wait staff. Amazing all of the "hole-in-the-wall" places like this in Tokyo--and it never ceases to amaze me how the food is ALWAYS delicious! I enjoyed a crazy-spicy Korean dish and several beers....to help knock me out for the long, 10-hour bus ride back up to northern Japan. After boarding the bus, I was asleep within minutes and actually awoken by the driver who wanted to be sure the "foreign girl" knew the rules and regulations of riding an overnite bus. Geesh---see the discrimination we gaijin put up with in Japan!
Thank you for a wonderful visit to Tokyo! I have learned so much from you in this last year and am SO priviledged in knowing you. I appreciate your friendship and mentorship. Hard to believe that soon I will be living in your footsteps, back @ SCSU doing the same program you did...some things are just meant to be!
Tanoshi katta des! Domo arigato gozaimas! Matta ne!
posted by aNne at 3:25 AM
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