MN: a day in the life: to the tip of Honshu...

Monday, October 10

to the tip of Honshu...

Another 3-day weekend in Japan. Feels like play more than work, but I'm not complaining. Mayumi, Damian and I set off for Osorezan in the Aomori Prefecture (the northernmost pref on the Honshu island). We had heard that Osorezan was notorious for its "scary atmosphere" and that was about all the reason we needed to drive 5 hours up the coast to see for ourselves. After weaving in and out through the mountainous terrain, we finally ended up at the haunted site that seemed strangely ultra-peaceful on this fall day!

So the Osorezan myth dates back hundreds of years. Buddhists believe in reincarnation and the souls returning to earth in the afterlife. Well, the Osorezan Mountains are believed to hold evil spirits and those spirits that claimed young children's lives. Through out the "park" (and I use that term lightly), these little doll figurine statues appear, with small memorials on them. Pictured below are a couple of these mini-shrines....gifts of money and food/treats that the child enjoyed.

Beautiful, colorful pin wheels decorate this memorial in front of the largest temple. We watched several families set up memorials along the waters of the park and throughout its rocky landscape. The mood is somber and despite hundreds of people milling about the mountainside, no one is talking. There is much time for reflection and meditation...if you can relax amongst the huge black crows (the size of small dogs) dive-bombing you every few feet!
Maybe I've seen "The Birds" one too many times...!?
Osorezan is full of natural hot springs. And because of this the weathered rock is dark grey and brown and smells...well, terrible. The sulphuric acid is intoxicating, but adds to the mystique. Walking around the mountain, you can't help but notice the steam coming from the earth below...almost like a spiritual release of sorts.

Mayumi and I are enjoying the scenery and trying to stay warm. It was FREEZING on top of this mountain!!! Suppose cold is most often associated with death. What was so unusual, and a bit "eery" was how much life was surrounding Osorezan. Everything was green and lush and beautiful fall colors were just starting to peak...but on this mountainside, we were surrounded by a putrid smell and nothing but dust and dirt. There was such a clear distinction between the two...almost like life and death were looking you right in the eye. Very interesting site!


Here is one of the "dolls" or (Jizu) that grace the mountainside. A bit creepy eh?

Gotta have a Buddha...this newly fashioned one is only 6 years old! Very beautiful!

I really shouldn't be smiling as I am standing amongst memorial grave sites.


We stayed at a traditional Japanese "ryokan" (hotel). Great service, wonderful onsen bath and a super traditional breakfast served the next day...sea urchin, oyster soup, a raw egg and a slice of boney salmon is definitely not one of my favorite ways to start off the morning, but livin' the Japanesey-lifestyle can't all be easypeasey. I scarfed some norimaki and spinach pieces and crossed my fingers that lunch would be a bit more edible!


After bfast, we made an impromptu change in the agenda...we decided to head up to the northern tip of Honshu (the mainland in Japan). I would like to take credit for this brilliant suggestion, but Damian would be upset. So glad we had a gorgeous day to wind thru the beautiful mountains along side the Sea of Japan! It was quite the switch to see the water on 'the other side' of Japan. After a bit of carsickness, we finally reached Oma = THE northernmost town in Honshu.


After a much anticipated lunch :) we stopped at the local shrine to collect our thoughts and pray for a safe return to Taneichi town.

a caption doesnt do it justice...


So this is it: Oma! This peninsula was so beautiful! Peaceful and free, we took in a few of the local shops...and immediately lost our appetites upon seeing some of the "delicious fare" that this super-seaside-city produces (which offered all the reassurance I needed in being thankful for my placement in Taneichi...where at least some real meat is consumed!) Pic below, X-marks-the-spot! We made it...and just a shade under 400 miles in 36 hours! Whew.....who needs rest on the weekends? From this post, you can actually SEE Hokkaido across the strait...weird, how fast you can travel around this country despite its long and narrow geography.


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