Taneichi Shogakko

Taneichi Elementary School

Taneichi Elem is located pretty close to my house. I have seen these smurf-esque tykes wandering the streets for months now, and finally I had the chance to check out their place. The day was extremely organized and ran so efficiently that I actually taught all 6 grades (2 classes combined for each grade) so 250 students in less than 7 hours! Talk about maximizing the use of an English teacher!

So the day was spent doing basic vocabulary and some self-introduction phrases (ex. colors, animals, body parts, "how are you?" and "what's your name?" etc) I really felt motivated today to give these students my best effort---For two reasons: one, in seeing how fearful my junior high students are of english, i wanted to disspell some of the scariness. And two, I learned that it was the only day scheduled for this school year for an English teacher to stop by! How disappointing....one step forward and 3 steps back. No wonder their first year of English in junior high is all basic vocab and phrases.

Japan is considering making English instruction mandatory at the elementary level. It's a hot debate right now and I can probably argue for it either way...........BUT I really can see the benefits of starting while they are young--if you are going to require it of them in high school. Damian and I were chatting last nite about this very topic, and while I don't completely agree with him in that English instruction should be optional in high school, I DO think that the students should be required to study A LANGUAGE---korean, chinese OR english---of their choice. I'm quickly learning that to acquire a language you need several things:

1. the interest (you gotta want it!)

2. the purpose (to know the benefits of acquiring the language)

3. the rapport w/ teacher (Language is all about expression - communication is intimate. With out some kind of connection or relationship between student and teacher, my students are intimidated and afraid to try as they will surely make mistakes. Establishing a rapport is the foundation for learning a new language!

Having these things in order, will improve their English! Need to keep this in mind, when I have my own ESL classroom someday!!!

Again, I wish to extend sincere thanks to the staff at this school. So welcoming and willing to TRY to communicate with me. There school is "English friendly" and that makes me feel good about the likelihood of their students' successes in English! This morning they had a welcoming ceremony for me, where I sat in front of the entire school --like I was on a panel. Various students read off some scripted speeches and all of the students/teachers stood at attention, while singing a song! It was so precious! Moments---I mean, DAYS---like these are days I will never forget.

geTTing the chiLLs

Happy fall to all near and far. While the colors have yet to peak here in Taneichi, the frEEzing cold weather is much more akin to pre-winter. It gets dark around 5:30 and COLD. As you know the houses here are not well insulated and I swear "central heat" only exists for members of the Diet (Japanese government). It has taken some getting used to- no heat and no air conditioning during the sweltering sauna bath of summer- but it all adds to the fun of being in a new place. Being in the schools that are widely ventilated through out the entire year (probably due to their not meeting OSHA standards), is sure to bring on more than a few colds this winter. 3 layers wasn't cutting it at school, so I have opted for thermal underwear! I thought central heat was everywhere, how naive was I?

So my house is also an ice box. I have the choice between some archaic kerosene heaters or a new electric heater (gee, what'll it be!?) I refuse to do the kerosene thing, don't people DIE using those!? My MN thick skin is not holding up though---I think I might bite the bullet and turn on the electric heater sometime next week. It gets down to 5' Celsious, which is around the upper 30's Fahrenheit. BRRRRR. I have recently found a couple of Japanese winterizing accessories--one if a kotatsu (basically a heated floor table). You put your legs under neath and it heats ya right up....well, until you need to go anywhere else in the house (but practical for lazy people that are willing to sit in the same spot just to stay warm!) I also found an "electric carpet"-japanese term unknown. This is a sweet deal...sprawl it out and it keeps your bum nice and toasty!

As I write this I am enjoying my first-time concoction of "wakame" soup-pictured above. On these cold evenings, I will be making tons of this stuff. Wakame means sea vegetable soup. Aptly named, it is seaweed and tofu. Its about as low-cal as you can get---with very little seasoning other than a packet or two of some sea-salts you are supposed to throw in it. My friend Junko showed me how to make this soup last week. It tastes............uh, earthy! I had been avoiding the sea weed scene thus far, but have decided to give it a go as it is nearly free! (Side note: Its a common sight to see women heading down to the ocean every day and to pull in their own seaweed, dry it on the beach and use a rickashaw sort of thing to wheel it back to their home---no lie!) I have also acquired the taste and texture of tofu! Yep, that stuff is sold by the semi truck over here....I mentioned how it is in everything (ice cream, cake, salad, soup etc...), but it really is the mystery ingredient w/ no taste, a spongy texture, an insane dose of protein, yet carb-free and can actually mold itself into whatever it is you are cooking. (Oh, and you can't screw it up!) So I had to experiement with this stuff....I'm doing as the Japanese do and putting it in every salad, stir fry and soup. I NEVER would have guessed I would have enjoyed cooking so much---but I love cooking Japanese food, as it actually requires creativity --I'm recipeless!

Let's see, in other random news and thoughts of the day, my GREs are one week from today! YippEE! So excited to take them...to get them out of the way! I have tried to study the last three weeks, but it's no use. It's not nearly enough time to refresh 10 years of math, to acquire thousands of new words and vocabulary (my brain is like mush...my speech has been oversimplified for too long!) and frankly, I would rather be doing anything BUT studying for what is only 2.5 hours of my life and SO not indicative of what kind of graduate student I will be. Alright, my alibis are on the table! I leave for Tokyo next Wed nite via overnite bus....it's a 10 hour trip down (or I could have opted for the Shink, which would have shot me down in 2 hours BUT cost double). I will be meeting up with my friend Yukiyo (who is from Akita-ken --the friendly neighbors to the West of Iwate) and I met her while she was finishing up her Master's program @ SCSU. She currently lives in Tokyo and is such a doll, super helpful and willing to be my tour guide for the weekend. She also happens to be the VERY first friend from back HOME that I will get to see! Seeing a familiar face is going to be great and we have several things planned to see and do down there....some temples in Aksaksa, shopping in Ginza, the Tokyo Tower and hopefully a chic jazz bar. I can't wait! I need a teeny breath of polluted air, ridiculously overpriced EVERYTHING and swarms of millions of people..........!!??!!

Well, it's back to the books for me. Keep on keepin' on. Toodles! Anne.

a welcome party

After wrapping up with Taneichi's bunkasai event, the teachers and I headed down to a local restaurant for some excellent food and drink. Having drawn straws to determine the seating arrangement, I ended up being placed next to Kocho Sensei...the principal...and I lucked out as his English is FANTASTIC and we had a really fascinating discussion about cultural differences and expectations and the way Japanese societal norms and mores are embedded into the language. Who would have thought that sake would be such a thought-inducing beverage!? Well, we talked about a few other things as well, so I am going to try to remember them as best as I can as it seemed important at the time. A few months into this Japan scene and I STILL find myself asking Why?! How come!? Seriously!?

1. We were talking about what defines Japanese culture....and because it is so prominent and central to their lives --its easy to see and experience--EVERYWHERE. We talked about gender inequality, the ultra-busy lifestyle of all Japanese and the conformity to past (and current) idealogies. Of course, one small part of the culture is the food, so I'll start with that. Obviously the food is very Japanesey and there are few options for ethnic treats of any kind. (Whenever I visit bigger cities I head straight for Thai or Chinese--anything but Japanese or Japatalian-concoctions that I drum up every nite... Pizza, mexican, sub sandwiches and turkey dinners havent even been introduced to the culture--they don't know what their missing! (actually, i dont' even miss those things yet, moot point.) Sometimes I wonder if they really want new things introduced?
My first job responsibility is to introduce English, but teaching and sharing culture is a very close second-or so I thought. They have made it pretty clear NOT to teach too much culture....Hmmm, so why don't they want too much exposure to *American culture*!? Well, as both history and current events indicate, American "culture" has undergone some interesting reformations that have left some pretty significant scars. I love living in America and am proud to be American, but in LIVING in Japan, I am trying to see things as they do...which is that America sometimes looks "crazy" "chaotic" and "disrespectful". It IS the antithesis of Japan. I actually know people that have said, I am scared to go to your country. Scared not only of the unknown that happens in going to a new place...but scared of the uncertainity and lack of structure--its "too free". Can you imagine it otherwise? I know I have taken it for granted, as I miss so many of the little things that fortunately go unquestioned, unaddressed and unaccounted for.

BUT---what happens when there is "too much freedom"? Lots of freedom, lots of people power and lots of diversity and you get lots of headaches sometimes. Let's face it, in the States, NOTHING surprises us anymore---just when we think we've heard it all...something else happens to raise the bar on the "acceptability scale". More and more people are testing the American expectations and values and look at where its taken us. It's hard to say where things are headed over there.
But over here, everything is so predictable and uniform and clearly defined. Japan feels like a bubble, a small protected, safe little island (with 135 million people living together harmoniously, in the size of California!) The country is so homogenized, that very few 'new' ideas or ways of thinking have nuzzled their way in. It's the same as it was years and years and years ago...no fresh blood as we say. The language, the roles and jobs, the situational dialouges and conversation, the hiearchy in the workplace and home, the behavioral expectations and the disciplinary actions that ensue----it hasn't changed in YEARS! This can be a great thing, as everyone knows their boundaries and where they fit in this puzzle called community. And it can also be a breeding grounds for what could be construed as oppressive. A place where individuality is not only not valued, but discouraged altogether.

2.
Sometimes, I feel like the Japanese community is afraid to embrace other cultures as it will undoubtedly change the dynamics of everything they know and the ways in which they live. Right now, everything is orderly, systematic and consistent. There IS no deviation from normal and no one rocks the boat. But let too many new thoughts in, foods, ideas--whatever it may be- the diversification could be detrimental to status quo and a tsunami of CHANGE and UNCERTAINTY would surely disrupt the country! Not really, but the tremors would rattle a few conservative folks!
I am quite liberal and progressive-which makes me the type that Japanese fear! My attitudes and personality and nature are probably intimidating to some, so THOSE are precisely the people I try to reach. I want to share my culture, attitudes and beliefs with people who are open to listening, though not necessarily in aggreement. I am not looking for acceptance, just people who want to learn and broaden their horizons a bit. Unfortunately, I have talked with many ALTs over here that say true *internationalization* is the most difficult part of the job.


3. Another thing Kocho and I gabbed about is how the Japanese community is still a bit communistic in thought...very rigid, inflexible and one-sided, no-questions-asked-mentality. Power lies in only a few hands and and fewer are given any choices. Ironically, no one complains. I'm trying to avoid using the term "closed-minded", but I can't find an English thesaurus to write otherwise. This backward thinking is stereotypically common in ANY small town in America, so I am not saying that only rural Japanese are "stuck in a mental rut." But I'm talking about significant amounts of the population...why are they still doing things like they did 150 years ago? Why all of the nonsensical behavioral rules? Why all of the set phrases that are so often insincerely spoken? I realize these are sweeping generalizations, but I'm just trying to make sense of WHY things are the way they are here in Taneichi, in the countryside and in Japan.

Naively, I thought I would have this culture figured out in a few months, but its much too complex to understand. With 4 written languages, several dialects and oral languages determined by gender, age and power status...its quite likely I'm not going to understand it all. However, I will continue to ponder and ask questions, as the many differences I have spoken of today are not meant to be negative and disheartening, but rather indicative of how FaSCinAtinG and inTerESTing of a place it is! Not experiencing challenges and culture shock would surely lead one to assume that I'm not learning and I love learning! It's the teacher in me!

MY QUESTIONS STEM FROM INTRIGUE AND MY COMMENTS FROM EXPERIENCE. I WANT TO LEARN MORE AND CONTINUE MY PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL GROWTH WHILE IN JAPAN! IT IS AN AMAZING PLACE........."Well, Toto, I don't think we are in Kansas anymore!"

LASTLY: Please drop a line if you care to comment on these differences! Tell us about your travels and your reactions to culture shock! Please pass on what you know so others can learn through you and your experiences! We have so much to share and learn from one another!

Pictured above are about half of Taneichi Junior High's faculty. Kocho Sensei is at the head of the table and "Tuna", one of my two Japanese English co-teachers is seated front right.

Bunkasai wkd

Shukunohe Jr High's Bunkasai

Well everyone, I'm bunkasaied out....its been a super long wkd spent lost in translation and I just don't have the energy to put another 50 pics on this site. In the effort of time and energy and well, laziness on my part...I have posted all pics from Shu's bunkasai on my school site instead of this one. I figured you have taken the time to come this far, what's one more click right! ;) You will also find additional pics from Taneichi's bunkasai. Read about the significance of the bunkasai below and and then click on this:

http://teachingintaneichischools.blogspot.com

Bunkasai= A cultural fest, which is really more like a "showcase of their fine art skills". Parents and community members can freely peruse the school's rooms and listen to the concerts etc. It's a time for the students to learn morals and values and Japanese traditions. They organize the ENTIRE event, so they learn how to work together-plan together and improve together. They teach each other the songs, arrange choreography, lead their own practices and even conduct the songs! They believe the bunkasai is meant to show the students what they need in order to be a productive members in society...pretty lofty goalk, but the mood was joyous and fun! Parents were on hand to check out the many skills their child posseses...not just academics and sports (which they really do excel at), but also music, drama and art. Would hate to compete against this bunch in a talent show! Great work kiddos!

TANEICHI'S BUNKASAI:

Here are just a few of the pics fr their festival. It was pretty cool, they turned all of their classrooms into mini-art museums. Their rooms were beautifully decorated by the students and showcased their shodo, metal making, painting/drawing, wood carving, basket weaving, sewing a pair of shorts!! and proving their handyman skills (each student had to refurbish an old radio). They sang many songs @ the local culture center, which was a contest between the grades. The brass band performed, the drama club did a one-hour play and the PTA threw a garage sale to boot! What a day!

In going to Shukunohe's festival, I realized that ALL bunkasais follow the same format. It was painfully similar---like right down to the types of art projects presented. Hmmm, the unmistakable consistency that plagues Japanese culture and society.

For more pics of Taneichi's special day...please go to:

Http://teachingintaneichischools.blogspot.com

Each class had to make a huge newspaper...like "regulation" size and everything. So its larger-than-life-size posed quite the challenge to fit all those difficult Kanji characters into neat little rows! But they did it and of course---true to the insane competitive spirit here---were judged on who's was best.

Never would have guessed these kids could 'act'...but they blew me away! Completely doing away with their "Japanese" cultural rules and behavioral expectations...it was great to see them let loose!

Love their artwork...geometric, interesting, eye-catching and creative! Super job folks! Yoku de kimashta!

- 3 mOnThS dOWn -

One of my MN JET pals down in Osaka just sent this pic to me. This is me taken during my tenth minute of being in Japan--which happens to be exactly 3 months ago TODAY!

That day feels like eeons ago, I have never experienced time flashing before my eyes like this before! I would LIKE to think maybe the next 3 months will be more relaxed, BUT with upcoming week-long trips to Tokyo, Hanamaki and Lake Towada in Akita...not to mention the big one month trip to China, Thailand, Koh Samui, Hong Kong and Taiwan...........uh, maybe things will settle down in February!??! Despite its craziness, I am so lucky to be here and still loving everything that comes my way- challenges and all.

I do have one apology however; I never write about my job. I really do serve a purpose here other than jetsetting throughout Asia. Today, I jotted down a few things about school and (concerns and questions) and the ways in which it compares to Japanese society and culture...

1. School life mirrors that of the working-world in Japan. It is a total preparation for contributing to society, participating in the community and being a respectful citizen. Now, in the States--I think our schools are 'set up' w/ those same goals and principles, BUT does it happen....NO! Why is that!? Well, lets look a bit @ why Japanese students act the way they do....

2. In kindergarten, age 4, students are given freedom, responsiliity and trust. They begin serving the school lunch, help clean the building and have homework--@ age 4!!! By the time they get to junior high, uh...they know the drill. In fact, presently, my almost all of the students are in their classrooms practicing for the upcoming School Culture Festival on Saturday (with out any teachers in the room!) Can you imagine leaving 38 9th graders unattended for ONE HOUR! Can you imagine all 38 students actually participating in the preparations for the festivities with NO direction or supervision from you!? I just sit back in awe... Moreover, students know their roles, their strengths, their interests, their niche. They hone in on anything they are interested in and practice it diligently until they have reached near perfection.

This sense of 'self' is so important in Japanese culture--as it ensures that no one will make too many waves or upset the ship. Things are so even keel here-its spooky! These attitudes carry on into adulthood, as the community members know their place. It's super hierarchal, yet no one complains about it. There is intense competition for positions and leadership roles, but everyone is respectful and supportive of one another.

I want to make a list of why these students are amazing....ALL 250 students I have. They each have their own quirky personalities, and some of them try to stand apart from the crowd a bit more than others...but it would NOT be a gross generalization to say that ALL of these students, in Taneichi,

exhibit AND/OR possess:

1. An inner desire to be the best. To persevere and never give up. To begin and finish each task --not only timely, but perfectly. There is much pressure to not only to finish first, but to do so with no mistakes. The students are tough, mentally-physically-emotionally, they never stop aspiring to better themselves. All day, every day (sometimes 10 HOUR DAYS) they give 100%. It is so interesting to see this carried out in the adult community as well. The busy-wanna-be-the-best-try-my-hardest attitude is SO apparent in all of my Japanese friends as well. Its just ingrained, or maybe genetic---I don't know?! But it is amazing to be surrounded by-and contagious!!! I never stop going, doing, moving, trying...I actually feel pressure to "kick it up a notch" too!

2. Many A+ students struggle in English class...understandable, our language is so difficult. When a student struggles during class, not only do their classmates rush to teach them, but they will also patiently wait for the student to figure it out. My teacher-pals out there know that when the material gets difficult, the behavior gets out of control and discipline becomes the entire focus of class. I can't describe why there are NO discipline problems here...perhaps because they are only reinforcing positive behavior? I had never seen 38 kids in a classroom...standard six-deep, straight rows...attentive and interested in perhaps the LEAST pertinent subject during their day. Isn't ADHD a world-wide phenomenon?! Why is it that NOT one of my 250 students exhibits ADHD tendencies? Really makes you think twice about "what" we are medicating...maybe the best medicine is tough love, consistency and stability?

3. These students take initiative. We all know people who are "askers", these kids are "doers." I don't need to say, "Don't forget your homework?" or "Why didn't you finish your assignment?" Such things are their "duty"--as they say here. School is a job--its preparation for their future and what they do in junior high WILL determine WHERE they go to high school---which WILL determine WHERE they go to University--which ultimately, is indicative of how successful they will be someday. [This tracking process happens in all countries, but I'm not sure everyone takes it as seriously as the students do here.] Their drive to succeed, passion to learn AND ability to withstand intense peer pressure in this ultra-competitive culture packs a powerful punch and definitely paves the way for a bright future full of many strong Japanese leaders!

4. As stated before, the schools are preparing for their bunkasai. It is a culture festival-that is designed to showcase the students multiple abilties--musically, academically and socially. The festival is COMPLETLY designed, prepared, organized and carried out by the students (not a shocker!) They have been working on finalizing things for over 3 weeks now. It is a VERY big deal as the parents and community come to the school to learn about the students. It is an opportunity for the students to show off their multivarious talents and to practice working as a team. One team building exercise is the singing portion of the festival---each class within each grade must sing 2 songs. They choose the songs and teach eachother the different parts and perform it. They help someone learn the piano part, they choose a conductor and have several "mini leaders" for each section that actually hold practice! Keep in mind, these schools do not have "CHOIR"---so they have no real formal training in music. BUT they sound like angels. I kid you not, listening to them (and knowing how many hours they have put into teaching one another) makes it all so beautiful, that I find myself a bit choked up at times. The teachers say that one of their goals of the bunkasai is to prepare students to work in the community---using teamwork and communication to be successful!

5. Lastly, before I close this 10 page posting, I want to mention that the teachers in Japan have it made. I KNOW they work very hard to prepare lessons and make sure all objectives are being taught...BUT these kids really do MOST of the work here. They are self-disciplined, self-motivated and have incredible self-esteems! They don't need you to play mother, best friend, pyschologist, guidance counselor etc. They need you to collect and correct, to continue assigning worksheet after worksheet (ah, the repetition kills me, but not them!) The teachers have no IEPs, no medications, no hassles...and conferences only once a year! So why am I contemplating returning after one year of this bliss!?! Well, that would take another 15 pages to explain so I'm going to suffice it to say, its one hell of an experience over here. I am just dumbfounded by the many differences in curriculum, pedagogical practices, student performance and expectations. I'm here to be a sponge, and as is indicated by this lengthy message---I am doing just that!

Big hellos to all of my teacher pals back home! I LOVE receiving your emails about your classrooms...please send them this way or BETTER yet drop a line through the 'post a comment' link below! Let me (and others know) why teaching is WONDERFUL and why teaching can be so CHALLENGING!

Taiko Festival

Rikuzentakatta Taiko Festival 2005

The Taneichi Taiko Team invited me along on a fun filled day of taiko tunes down in Rikuzentakatta, Iwate. This is a pretty huge festival, I'm not sure how they do it, but they select the top 10 groups from some "pool" of club teams and that group tours the country at festivals like this one. So, 10 groups from various places in Japan (Tokyo, Akita, Gunma and Okinawa-to name a few) each performed for about 30 minutes each... 4 hours of taiko and I would have loved another 4! I am amazed by the skills of the Taneichi Team, and was NOT suprised to learn that they were asked to perform at last year's event! Guess I am learning from the best! Speaking of best...here are a few of the members that made the trip down, via bus, with me.

As you can see, the age range is huge. Keep in mind, the team is like an "extracurricular" activity...the members still have regular full time jobs and families to raise etc...but the dedication they have to this is incredible! On the bus ride down, the team was clapping out rhythms and discussing new techniques to try in future shows. I just wanted to relax and sleep...as we left Taneichi @ 4:50 AM!!! It took 5 hours to from the northernmost to southernmost city...and another 5.5 hrs back up again. I am exhausted but wanted to post these pics quickly so I don't keep some of you superfans in suspense!

Ok, so the "no-flash-rule" was the only major bummer on the day...the pics didn't turn out. Although I did get a few cool "effects" to turn out. So enjoy the pics, for what they are, it was SO much cooler to witness in person. The music is SO intense and is played with such respect and pride. The taiko is obviously THE most traditional/popular instrument in Japan, and rightfully so. It is super difficult and requires intense focus and teamwork. Just a few of the MANY virtues most Japanese live their lives by.

One of the Taneichi Team's "leaders" is a high school student. He must be quite the standout as his face was pictured on the billboards/magazines/brochures and event advertisement! Way to go Ryoske! Your hard work has paid off..you are kinda famous! ;)

All groups performed "original" works that were enjoyed, by even the highest of taiko-connesiurs, for the first time. These debut tunes were excellent...lots of variety--you would think with this many teams there would be some "repeat patterns or songs"...but there wasn't at all! Great for a person with a bit of ADHD tendencies!

This was one of my favorite groups. So skilled...playing 3 drums at once (well, if you do the math on that one, .....) You get the idea--they've got skills. Pure heart and pure talent!

This was a group of 'elders'...they went with a more modern dance approach instead of risking breaking something using the taiko drums. Probably a good idea, but I loved their colors and passion for their music....transcending through the years and years they have been involved with it.

The highlight of the festival, was an actual "professional taiko troupe" that performed last. It was made up of only 4 members, but the sound they produced sounded like that of 20 people! They wore beautiful traditional garb (uh, didn't catch that vocab today!) They also treated us to a fantastic encore to reiterate that they really are the greatest. I have SOOOOOOOOOOOO far to go in learning taiko, but even members on our team said that watching these performers is humbling and makes them want to learn more. What passion the Taneichi Team has! You guys can do anything...keep it up! Your sound is fantastic!

The striking backdrops, set, "costumes" (although not really...) and scenery are so visually entertaining! I couldn't get enough of it! Hope you could somehow use your imagination to picture what hundreds of taiko all-stars look like! Will try to take some better ones next time! My head and heart are still thumping to the tunes from today...

iwaizumi roadtrip

Having just spent last wkd up north in Aomori prefecture, I decided to do a quick day trip to Southern Iwate with my pal Taira. We left @ 7 bells and were off to see 3 sites...Kitayamazaki, Ryusendou AND Jodogohama. Yes, we are ambitious ladies! That's one of the reasons she is so great to travel with! The forecast looked, ...well terrible---and it was. It rained the entire trip! So, upon reaching Jodogohama (in the hopes of the boatride through the beautiful rocky sculptures in the ocean...) we opted to return at a later date. Here is the synapsis of the other 2 spots:

Iwaizumi is home to several famous sights in Iwate. One of them is pictured here...Kitayamazaki. This scenic spot is like a symbol of Iwate...its on all of the postcards and logos. Considering its popularity, we were shocked that NO ONE was there--then again it was only 8:30 AM. It was so peaceful and dead silent...opportunities for reflection! This cape has a beautiful rocky landscape and teal-colored waters. It was really beautiful, but like many days down here--it was foggy and rainy! But we persevered and were able to snap a few shots before being chased back into the car (for another 2 hour ride to.....Ryusendou Cave!)

And then....

Ryusendou Cave is one of only 3 limestone caves in Japan. Amazing cerulean blue water rushes through it. It has many underground pools, one of them is over 400 feet deep (and the largest of its kind in Japan!) Of course the stalagtites and 'mites are always spooky and mysterious to check out. A second cave was actually a science museum...they had lots of stuffed "cave dwelling" insects and animals that upon learning of their "existence" in the cave, made me want to bolt for the door!

Thanks for driving Taira! Part 3...Jodogohama is a must-see trip worth taking sometime in the near future! Looking forward to it! Tomorrow, I am off to southern Iwate once more...Rikuzentakatta's ANNUAL Taiko event. One of the biggest Taiko festivals in Japan! I can't wait...except we are leaving @ 4:50 AM! Will write more when I catch up on my sleep! Good nite everyone!

to the tip of Honshu...

Another 3-day weekend in Japan. Feels like play more than work, but I'm not complaining. Mayumi, Damian and I set off for Osorezan in the Aomori Prefecture (the northernmost pref on the Honshu island). We had heard that Osorezan was notorious for its "scary atmosphere" and that was about all the reason we needed to drive 5 hours up the coast to see for ourselves. After weaving in and out through the mountainous terrain, we finally ended up at the haunted site that seemed strangely ultra-peaceful on this fall day!

So the Osorezan myth dates back hundreds of years. Buddhists believe in reincarnation and the souls returning to earth in the afterlife. Well, the Osorezan Mountains are believed to hold evil spirits and those spirits that claimed young children's lives. Through out the "park" (and I use that term lightly), these little doll figurine statues appear, with small memorials on them. Pictured below are a couple of these mini-shrines....gifts of money and food/treats that the child enjoyed.

Beautiful, colorful pin wheels decorate this memorial in front of the largest temple. We watched several families set up memorials along the waters of the park and throughout its rocky landscape. The mood is somber and despite hundreds of people milling about the mountainside, no one is talking. There is much time for reflection and meditation...if you can relax amongst the huge black crows (the size of small dogs) dive-bombing you every few feet!

Maybe I've seen "The Birds" one too many times...!?

Osorezan is full of natural hot springs. And because of this the weathered rock is dark grey and brown and smells...well, terrible. The sulphuric acid is intoxicating, but adds to the mystique. Walking around the mountain, you can't help but notice the steam coming from the earth below...almost like a spiritual release of sorts.

Mayumi and I are enjoying the scenery and trying to stay warm. It was FREEZING on top of this mountain!!! Suppose cold is most often associated with death. What was so unusual, and a bit "eery" was how much life was surrounding Osorezan. Everything was green and lush and beautiful fall colors were just starting to peak...but on this mountainside, we were surrounded by a putrid smell and nothing but dust and dirt. There was such a clear distinction between the two...almost like life and death were looking you right in the eye. Very interesting site!

Here is one of the "dolls" or (Jizu) that grace the mountainside. A bit creepy eh?

Gotta have a Buddha...this newly fashioned one is only 6 years old! Very beautiful!

I really shouldn't be smiling as I am standing amongst memorial grave sites.

We stayed at a traditional Japanese "ryokan" (hotel). Great service, wonderful onsen bath and a super traditional breakfast served the next day...sea urchin, oyster soup, a raw egg and a slice of boney salmon is definitely not one of my favorite ways to start off the morning, but livin' the Japanesey-lifestyle can't all be easypeasey. I scarfed some norimaki and spinach pieces and crossed my fingers that lunch would be a bit more edible!

After bfast, we made an impromptu change in the agenda...we decided to head up to the northern tip of Honshu (the mainland in Japan). I would like to take credit for this brilliant suggestion, but Damian would be upset. So glad we had a gorgeous day to wind thru the beautiful mountains along side the Sea of Japan! It was quite the switch to see the water on 'the other side' of Japan. After a bit of carsickness, we finally reached Oma = THE northernmost town in Honshu.

After a much anticipated lunch :) we stopped at the local shrine to collect our thoughts and pray for a safe return to Taneichi town.

a caption doesnt do it justice...

So this is it: Oma! This peninsula was so beautiful! Peaceful and free, we took in a few of the local shops...and immediately lost our appetites upon seeing some of the "delicious fare" that this super-seaside-city produces (which offered all the reassurance I needed in being thankful for my placement in Taneichi...where at least some real meat is consumed!) Pic below, X-marks-the-spot! We made it...and just a shade under 400 miles in 36 hours! Whew.....who needs rest on the weekends? From this post, you can actually SEE Hokkaido across the strait...weird, how fast you can travel around this country despite its long and narrow geography.

pre-"Nebuta Fest"

Aomori Prefecture: Site of the famous Nebuta Festival..AND low and behold, the site of the ONE and ONLY MINNESOTA license plate I will ever see in Asia! I was shopping @ a thrift store, when I noticed this beautiful little piece of "home" just tucked away between tons of manga (comicbooks).

It's a small world!

A few words about Nebuta...

There are a couple of theories about how Nebuta came to be. One is that an army general created these intense, scary-looking faces to terrify the enemy. The other is that its origins are in the Toro (or latern lighting part of Obon Festivities). The Nebuta characters were thought to scare away evil spirits that could return during the Obon Holiday.

Ironically, Nebuta means "drowsiness", but falling asleep during it is impossible! This festival is one of the BEST and BIGGEST festivals in Japan, drawing TENS OF MILLIONS of visitors each year to Northern Japan.

While enjoying some great shopping and sampling the local food fare, I also had the opportunity to check out a 'jamisen' performance! The musicsound was so "ethnic"! It sounds very "Middle Eastern-ish". This guy was rockin' out to some Neil Young and Black Sabbath after performing the traditional Japanese tunes. Nothing like listening to a jamisen-ized version of "Free Fallin'"!!

The Nebuta-style is modeled after old Kabuki characters and famous military generals. The faces are unique and offer an interpretation of the artist's values and beliefs, giving each Nebuta a personality of its own! It's a theatrical festival, lots of dancing and taiko and full audience participation (in none other than "Samurai" garb!!!). No one "watches" this festival,

everyone is out there making it happen!

eLEcTriFyiNG